I had a good quiet night, the only other lodger in the workers shack was a young guy who was working somewhere around and I had a reasonable nights sleep. That breakfast was included was a surprise and it wasnt that bad either.

I headed off in the direction of Parnu putting off the decision as to whether I should head to the center or to the nature reserve 30km out of my way. The hostel there had been recomonded by another traveller I had met in Tallin before the side trip to India.

The decision junction came and went and it was obvious I was heading for Parnu and on arrival at the tourist information center I immediately wished I had taken the other option.

Parnu has proclaimed itself as Estonia’s premier health resort and that maybe true, but the town and the people didnt really inspire me much, Id much rather go to Haapsalu.

“Pärnu is a health resort of international stature” is a quote you will find elsewhere on the web and accurately describes the stance of the image mongers building something from not so much. Im in no way against the town, its just not that interesting.

The attitude of the woman in the tourist information was dreadful, I dont know whether the two old dears before me had pissed her off or if orgasm or satisfactory bowel movement had been denied her for the past ten years, but she was in no state or condition to be welcoming people to the town.

I left with no real information and headed towards the sea and passing a big Hotel I went in, never really expecting to stay but the staff are usually a bit better educated and as I have learned are a good source of knowledge.

The price for a room was pretty high, but they had free internet and directed me across the road to the Stadion Hostel. It was a great place, run down – the manager valiantly fighting a loosing battle trying to keep it watertight.

My room was jaded but clean, the showers were communal, the water warm. I had intended cooking for myself, but wasnt brave enough to face the kitchen after the builders had made whatever they had made.

This was my first introduction to the eastern European fridge, where irrespective of the colour of the plastic will generally be bacteria ingrained black/ brown scratches. I dont mean just the lip at the door but all surfaces.

After showering I went back across the road to the Hotel, as the Hostel was only 150EEk I decided to eat there  and use the Wifi. Wienerschnitzel and beer were just what I was in the mood for and after another beer headed back to the Hostel for a good nights sleep.

Vladimir is always telling me that Lance says “the wind is your friend” and I would be inclined to agree with him if it were ever to decide to blow in the direction Im heading. Weather men please take note, what ever direction I follow in the morning the wind will be blowing in the opposite direction.

I can think of two distinct occasions when the wind was in my favour.
The first was my return journey across from Stromness to Kirkwall, the return took less than two hours and closer to one if my memory serves. The journey out towards Stromness took over six hours. There was one point where leaning downhill into the wind you could balance on the bike without making a millimeters progress.

The second time that I remember clearly I just gave up and turned to the direction the wind was blowing.
I find the wind demoralising. I do and am working on this, as it is a purely psychological problem but there is nothing exhausts me more than cycling into the wind, well that and explaining something technically inconsequential to me, to some one from lets say an art history background.

The wind was the second of my three challenges today, stupidity was my first.
I had followed cycle route Number 1 from Tallinn to Haapsalu and after buying a replacement fiberglass rod for my flag, the last one was stolen in Chennia central by the village idiot, I passed a sign for for said cycle route number 1 and dutifully followed it.

It took me past the train station, a magnificent example of what a train station should look like Glasgow central, Budapest Keleti Pu so on and so fourth. It took me past all sorts of interesting bits of concrete sticking out of the ground, an Airstrip that I snuck onto avoiding the ineffectual guard on two occasions, past beautiful and historic buildings now in ruins and at the end it took me to the sea, where I could watch the wind multiply, advance and froth up the waves.

The waves were initially not easy to see as there were three big roll on roll off ships in the way but they did herald the realisation that I had arrived in Rohukuela. It had taken me a while as I had been shopping, eaten lunch and visited the numerous interesting places on route, however it was the wrong bloody direction.

I followed a secondary then third class road to Vilkla, it would have been faster heading back and after leaving the lodging in Haapsalu two and a half hours before, I had made it 8km down the road to Parnu, thats a new record even by my standards. It was at this point I realised I would not be spending the night in Parnu and new that the next place with reliable lodging was Lihula, Virtsu was better distance wise, but the Tourist Info woman advised against it.

Im glad this was my destination as the short section from Kirba to Lihula took an hour, the wind was punishing. I even got off to walk for a while I was that miserable, this and the third of my challenges was irking me.

Another cyclist carrying gear passed me and as I was thinking about doing a u-turn to chat with him when my right foot flew off the pedal. Chastising my lack of dexterity, I put my foot back on the pedal and it happened again and I realised it wasnt my fault.

On closer inspection at least one of the ball bearings in the pedal had cracked/ shattered, which means that I spent the last 10km grinding whatever ingenious metal bits are in there into a fine powder. It didnt sound or feel good or comfortable, but it did keep working. I suppose I will replace it in Parnu tomorrow, though I would have expected much greater distance from one set of pedals, newer Shimano gear seems less robust, my old XT hubs did 15,000 km and 28,000km respectively and I didnt intentionally or necessarily replaced the rear.

Arriving at the Hotel & Hostel I was told it was full Tada!
While I made some rough calculations about the tensile strength of the skirt material the buxom reception wench was wearing, she told me after some discussion about other options that there would be a room available in an hour, but at 750 EEK so I said no thanks and as we were discussing nearby camping grounds and the like and the conversation went on I nipped out to get my valuables bag for security. On my return I was told there would be a Hostel room available in an hour @250EEK – surprising.

I had a whistle stop tour around town and 15min later went into the supermarket for tomorrows essentials: chocolate, fruit juice and a can of beer. Arriving back in significantly less than the prescribed hour I tried to get a coffee, which was unavailable and as the new receptionists proximity was making my eyes water and at the same time making me feel faint, I had a seat and distracted myself with some cartoons. Surprisingly this gambit didnt work and I spent the time contemplating the psychology of the black bra under white blouse mode, I didnt really reach a conclusion.

After completing the usual form and paying, she showed me to my room, I would have paid the 250EEk just for that short walk behind her.

Tempted as I was I didnt try the Wifi out, this sign is in Nova metropolis, outside the fire station about 100km from anywhere with more than two houses and a shop. I did however thankfully have some soup here. I expect Solyanka and Plov will be my staple diet until China bow. This old dear was quite amused at me trying to decypher the menu.

It had been a few nights since I had slept well and my legs and arse were really feeling it so this morning I decided to stay a second day here. Last night was fun, I met a Norwegian couple, we chatted drank some wine and it was thoroughly refreshing to be talking with educated like minded people, I liked them both very much, especially as they were quite different from each other.

Dinner was pretty good too, pasta and various inventive cheap but tasty sauces. The group of bird watchers who were already here were having a BBQ, but didnt seem that interested in inviting me, so I cooked in the kitchen. They then woke me at 5am not they were not that noisy, but they woke me, so after applying earplugs it was 10:30 before I was making breakfast!

And it was at this point I decided to stay another day, so after breakfast I went back to bed and listened to an installment of the “The Vampire Lestat” and dosed until 14:00, when I headed into town.

Haapsalu is a nice, quiet place, not much happening with a big castle in the center of the old town and a couple of nice walks to go. There are places where they will wrap you in mud and all that shenanigans, which I had considered as it may have helped my ulna problem and clear the definite complaints from my quadriceps but I just didnt have time to look at the prices. There was one place that gave two treatments and overnight B&B for 850EEK – not bad at all, but I had no time to call and book before hand.

The place I did stay was great as was the owner, she spoke impeckable English which she said was down to her teacher, what a diferance you can make to someones life if your are a competant teacher and are motivated. Uday Kumar is an example, he has a school where he teaches the untouchables on one side of the road and the touchables on the other. Sadly the teachers he has been allotted do not have or share his passion and I fear that when he retires in a couple of years the school will dwindle. He did not mention this but it was blatantly apparent in the manner and behaviour of most of his staff. Pictures, story and newspaper stuff on india4winter and hopefully integrated here sometime soon.

It was 2pm by the time I had posted my cold weather gear to Hubert and done my final packing. There was a powercut in Tallinn last night so I didnt get as much done as I expected. Finally I had the bike loaded finished flirting with the receptionist and reluctantly left.

The last few days had been quite stressful, the bad news about Belarus following Russia’s suit and being a pain in the arse about Visa issue outwith the country your passport is issued, but after much work I made some decisions and found some solutions. This too was another delay, but I was glad to be finally on the road. The first port of call was the petrol station and once the tyres were at pressure I headed off.

I was certain that bike route Number 1 ran on one of the streets parrallel to where I was at the garage, however it wasnt the one I choose and after a brief but illuminating visit to one of the rougher Russian areas of town I eventually joined the route and I made very good time to Paldiski. I had wanted to visit the various decaying Russian installations, fire control, Nuclear testing area and the nuclear labs that are all still there, but it was already late so I headed off in the direction of Padise and my prearranged bed for the night.

The road from Paldiski to Padise was awful.They are resurfacing it and the clouds of dust and stones sent up by the trucks were tough to navigate, the trucks that were speeding were a nightmare. The other sights were fabulous. The road was dotted with old graveyards and I stopped at a few, these pictures are from my favorite. Supposedly there is something special about these circular crosses and one of the graveyards I passed had the largest number of circular gravestones in Europe/ the world.

I had just crossed this railway line and was thinking about the north of Germany, its freight rail network and the remote concentration camps there, when I passed this sign:

I had been in a rush when organising the reservation so didnt pay much attention to location, name or address of the Hotel, I just expected it the be the only one there. It had just gone eight when I arrived in the town and started looking for the Hotel, but everyone just looked at me as though I was crazy.

It was then that I spotted the local Tourist Info sign, with the Hotel marked some 20km distant. I would have chosen another solution but I was long past the last shops so camping was out and there were no other options, so I did what every good adventurer does in this situation. I ate some chocolate, drank the last of my water and got to it. The bike is despite being heavily laden is moving very swiftly and I made fair time along the last stretch despite the cramps I was getting in the tops of my thighs and eventually as the last of the days light was fading I joined a landrover track decorated with multiple “Hotel this way” signs and headed into the woods.

It is a great location, quiet, remote and thats saying something considering I did nothing but cycle through “remote” all day. The restaurant closed at 20:00, it was 21:30 and there were no shops for long distances, but the woman at reception was delightful, made me some sandwiches and let me keep the bike in my room, what’s more there was Wifi and beer.

The place was pretty quiet except for one group who kept going out to smoke and were pretty noisy but that stopped around three when I told them to be quiet and put my earlugs in. I was pretty tired in the morning and took it very easy, late breakfast, late departure etc., etc.

I had a great week with my uncle John, Malcolm and Jenny here. I have lots to organise, route accommodation options, Visas, replacement equipment and loads to read about equipment, the countries border crossing tips blah blah, etc etc.

So I left the weekend free but on Monday started with the planning, and by Tuesday I was that stressed and torn between spending time with the guys I wasnt getting anything done, so on Tuesday afternoon I gave up and sorted out another weeks accommodation in Tallinn.

I should have said smile!

The last thing we did together was a trip to Paldiski. Malcolm had heard about the nuclear testing stuff and old soviet era buildings, so we headed off to see what we could see. Malcolm didnt know that much about what was where so we were just going to walk around and hopefully stumble upon stuff. John was quickly lost interest in this approach, so after a pleasant lunch at the train station we headed back to Tallinn.

One week quickly becomes two.

Ive been working pretty hard at things and just as I was ready to leave one of my teeth started playing up. There Dental tourism industry here is expanding and getting an appointment wasnt that easy, so I ended up at the local clinic. The dentist removed a filling and told me to come back in a week. I did so and she filled it with a temporary substance and instructed me to get it filled in a couple of weeks to a month. The problem with that plan is Ill be in Belarus and I would prefer a selection of modern dental materials as opposed to a selection of hard woods, so Im going to wait until Kiev to get the filling done.

Yes there are some teeth left amongst the shrapnel. Im convinced that the dentists we went to in the late 70s and early 80s gave us fillings unnecessarily as they were given cash by the government. As children we very very rarely ate sweets and then it one one bar shared amounst three, we ate well and we were good at cleaning our teeth.

Four months ago I made the decision to pause the trip and head to India for the winter. I arrived back today, there was the expected stress getting everything on the plane but I used the same strategy as before and loaded one of the panniers with all the heavy stuff that would not identify me as a hijacker when it went through the XRAY. You would not believe the trouble my spare bike parts made on the way out. Man, I was so tempted to leave out “bike” in the preceding sentence.

There was some luck involved as the check-in girl had just dealt with a very difficult old woman and although attentive was still a little phased, so I made it as easy as I could for her, had everything ready and showed the small black rucksack on my right shoulder, not hiding just not highlighting the pannier also hanging on my shoulder and weighing quite a bit more.

The flight was a breeze, after four months cycling just under 3000km, and the preceding days journey which included 27hrs on a train a few hours in an air conditioned room being fed food and alcohol in a comfortable seat was easy.

I was met by Relika from CityBike at the airport, I had left stuff with Citybike and she had brought that with her too, so I added my gear to the van and we headed to the apartment I had booked as I wasnt staying with CityBike this time around. The woman on reception was great but the room wasnt, not for four or more people anyway no matter how friendly they were. So I lugged all my stuff up four flights of stairs and looked for an alternative. I had already spoken to appartment.ee and they still had an apartment for me so first thing in the morning I checked out and Relika moved me to the new place, I was 600+euros down and hoped that I would get the cash back.

The second place was much much better, there were two bedrooms a bathroom that you didnt have to crouch to get into and a good kitchen, so I set about loading the fridge with food and beer, the guys were arriving tomorrow and I wanted to have things ready. It took me four trips, there is only so much you can carry at a time and when you need to equip the kitchen from scratch it a lot of stuff, well that and the beer was in bottles