I left Nasbinals fairly early as I wanted to be in Estaing as early as was possible. The landscape and light were pretty fabulous until the snow started and even then it wasn’t that bad. My route today wasn’t exactly a major one and most people in France stay at home on Christmas day so the traffic was very light. Many of my thoughts today were of Christmas 2008 when I cycled 100km+ back into Bombay/ Thane, read about it here. after I had been in the mountains to visit Nashik a very different journey.

The descent from Aubrac, where the monks used to ring a bell for the Pilgrims lost in the snows, had been both exciting and challenging. The road had a fair amount of snow and slush and I was more than a little concerned about meeting black ice at an unfortunate velocity so kept my speed down. As the snow and slush dissipated I grew more and more adventurous and made the most of the 8% descent into StComtDeOlt.

StCompt is not a large town, the last time I was here on the camino I was sharing my route with a Swiss girl. There  was about a week where she would leave early and walk a good day, I would leave late and cycle an easy day, organise accommodation for us at our agreed destination. An ideal, idyllic and lusty part of that journey that I remember fondly.

That night after dinner in StCompt we took a walk around the fair that was in town.  Unable to resist and amused at the idea I  gave the shooting gallery a try, where I paid for two turns. The first turn allowed me to determine what was wrong with the sights and performance of the gun. The guy tried really hard to get me to use another gun for my second turn but I insisted and to his chagrin scored a bulls-eye with every shot with my second go. The cuddly toy wasn’t that impressive, but  good fun amongst the candy floss and screaming kids. This time I circled the town which was empty and headed on with little delay.

Today was another of those days where the change in landscape is quite stunningly apparent. Aubrac  is famous for its bad weather but  as you can see from the picture above, 10km further on and 600meters lower down its very different indeed.

I’ve often thought about returning to Estaing and the easy cycle along the from Saint-comte-d`Olt was quite full of expectation. I stopped across the river and took a couple of shots before crossing the bridge and taking a short circuit of the town. I knew where I was going, I had arrived early (for me) and it was interesting to see what I had and what I had not remembered of the town.

My last time along the Camino I had not intended stopping here, but the town and location were  like a dream, I found a quiet spot along the river and played my flute. Later with plenty of luck I found the Hospitalité St-Jacques. They are a Catholic community somehow associated with the founders of the town. It is an interesting place attracting an interesting group of people. Sadly, Paul who I had met the last time had left, having returned to Paris where he lives with his family. He and I had an instant rapor,I  cooked together and afterwards he let me make a noise on his guitar, which he then deftly played.

This time I was greeted by Dennis who is here for a while from Paris and Vincent. Dennis speaks very good English as does Vincent and we had a very calm, quiet and simple meal together last night, which I enjoyed as I didn’t have to cook, but did  suggest that if I stay a second night I do the cooking The banter while washing the dishes was perhaps the most fun, where Vincent declared his love of singing. He was very honest about his distinct lack of skill and ability, but he loves the process and we all delighted in his frank acceptance of the situation.

I joined the guys after dinner for a short session of prayer, they are not “inyourface” about  the holy things which is good as I have been known to have an adverse reaction to this approach and anyway I am not against positive energy and intention in this life. So we spent a calm half hour where they followed some holy rites and after exposing the Eucharist, I sat for a while thinking of my family and friends, their various situations and wishing them all well for the coming year.

This took me quite a while and I think Dennis was happy when I finally left the room. They have a Jerusalem cross in the parquet floor and were delighted when I told them that my intended route takes me through Israel and Jerusalem. They will pray for me until I reach Jerusalem and I gladly except any and all positive support.

Very bling here at the alter in Estaing

Hiding in a corner is this fabulous freeze, I think the handsome wench is Catherine of Alexandria

I had already booked a room on the 27th and had hopped to change the booking to the 26th, but despite my best efforts this morning(they made me have breakfast @07:45) I did not get the people on the phone so I’m here for a second day. Did I mention the 7:45 breakfast?

It was here in Estaing that I found one of my dearest possessions, a knife that many of you will be familiar with. An elegant  Lagoile blade hand made in the shop pictured below. Its been everywhere with me since was I last here.

I’m hoping to find the proprietor as I have a friend who both appreciates and uses such things and would like to get him one. He has also just had a son who’s initials are also PJ. Despite hanging around outside the shop in a rather suspicious manner Ive yet to instigate any life or response, but I’m certain the artisan lives above the shop and its only a matter of time before the police arrive or he dumps the contents of the water closet on my head.